18
ONYX IN ART HISTORY
F OC US ON
Since the dawn of time, stones have been the undisputed protagonists of jewels and ornaments; onyx in particular was and still is one of the most sought after and used stones. In ancient Ionic and Etruscan art, for example, semi-precious stones were considered forerunners of the cameo, the use of which spread from the Hellenistic age. Onyx, together with agate, was essential in this type of work. Speaking of cameos, one of the most famous and well-known during the Roman Empire is the so-called Farnese cup (Augustan Age) worked on a two-layer onyx, rich in veins and depicting Medusa and the fertility of the Nile. The value of onyx in jewels is also evident by observing the pictorial masterpieces such as the Lady with an Ermine by Leonardo da Vinci: it portrays a single jewel, a necklace tightened around the throat and left to hang on the breast which - according to experts - depicts onyx. Onyx consolidates its fortune even in the 1920s and in the Art Deco period: pendants, necklaces, earrings, rings are embellished and enlivened by this unique colored stone. Coco Chanel loved onyx, in fact her day outfits included accessories such as jewelry and necklaces made with onyx, agate and carnelian.
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